Our order form is not available at the moment. Our order form has been updated to go live early this November. The exact date will be announced within the next few weeks. It will be first-come, first served, and we will take the first 20 orders.
For mods and fixes, our prices are as follows:
- Shield drop notches – ($40)
- Wavedash notches – ($25)
- Shield drop + wavedash ($65)
- Full angle firefox notches (Includes shield drop + max wavedash) – ($125)
- Other custom notches – ($25-30)
- Responsive LED mod ($50) (clear controllers only)
- Tactile Z button – ($10)
- Snapback removal capacitor mod – ($15)
- Trigger lubrication ($10)
- Trigger spring height reduction ($10)
- Raised trigger ($10)
- Analog Stick Rubber stick cap replacement – ($5-10 depending on quality)
- Button Pad Replacement – ($5)
- Analog stickbox replacement – ($15-20 depending on type/quality)
- Stickbox potentiometer replacement – ($15)
- Motherboard Replacement – ($25-60 depending on type/quality)
- L/R slider potentiometer replacement – ($15)
Our prices for stock controllers range from $35-300 depending on the customization of the controller and whether it’s a new, used, or a collector’s item. These will be listed under the “Controllers” and “Modded Controllers” tabs
We also sell controller accessories with prices listed under the “Accessories” tab.
The custom responsive LED modification works by installing LEDs inside of the controller. The LEDs have multiple modes and can change based on what inputs you’re pressing on the controller. The LEDs can also display fading, pulsing and waving animations.
The LEDs have multiple modes, and can be turned off or switch modes by pressing D-pad down.
If you would like custom colors and LED animations, we can custom-program the LEDs to be whatever color(s) you like.
Shield drop notches are made by carving small parts of plastic out of the controller front plate to better align the existing octagonal pattern to one where it’s easier to shield drop using the “Axe method”
The “Axe method” of shield dropping is where you shield on a platform with your shield fully tilted to the side, then roll the control stick down until it reaches the SouthEast or SouthWest notches of the octagonal control stick gate. If you don’t go far enough you’ll stay in shield, if you go too far you’ll spotdodge.
Firefox and wavedashes notches allow you to consistently hit very close to the maximum possible values of longest wavedashes and most shallow Firefox/upB angles.
These notches work by carefully carving small parts out of the controller plastic so your control stick easily slides and and sticks in the exact position it needs in order to do the furthest angle.
The tactile Z button mod replaces the normal Z button mechanism with a new button that is slightly harder to press but has a very distinct click when you press the button. It makes it much easier to tell when you have clicked the button.
The snapback capacitor mod makes it so you don’t accidentally miss aerial turnaround neutral B moves like reverse Laser and Reverse needle.
Missing your turnaround neutral B happens when your controller when you flick to the side, and your controller reads an extra input when attempting to return to neutral. This can be fixed electrically.
Some controllers wear in to the point where they don’t have snapback, but if your controller is newer or hasn’t been worn in the right way it will have snapback, which will cause you to miss your turnaround neutral Bs on occasion.
We add an electrical component called a capacitor to reduce the part of the signal that would cause you to miss your reverse neutral B
As a result of adding this component however, the control stick will drift after you plug it in and you will need to reset your controller every time you plug it in.
3.) Fixes/Controller Problems
Yes, with some exceptions. We can replace the stickbox entirely and replace it with a different stickbox, but this will likely affect the feel of the controller, dashbacks and any notches you already have on the controller. If you don’t mind this, we can switch out the stickbox to one that feels better for you.
Yes. We fix this by replacing the cord entirely.
Yes, this is caused when controllers are sensitive in certain ways and have snapback in the vertical direction. This can be fixed by doing the snapback capacitor mod on the vertical potentiometer.
Yes. This problem usually happens on Smash 4 controllers or Custom painted controllers with coats of paint that are too thick/sticky. This can be fixed by a combination of replacing the painted trigger buttons with normal ones, adding a metal guide bar, and lubricating the triggers.
Yes. This is usually caused by either the potentiometer becoming unclipped or by the potentiometer wearing down. If the potentiometer has worn down we will replace it with a newer one.
Yes, analog stick caps are interchangeable. We fix this by putting on a better quality stick cap. We can put on one that is slightly worn but still functional for cheaper, or we can put on a newer one for slightly more expensive. We can also put on an alternative stick cap such as a modified 3rd party stick cap or a nunchuck or Wii Pro controller stick cap.
Yes, this is caused by one of 3 problems. The first thing to check is whether you’re playing on a Wii that loads using Nintedon’t and hasn’t turned on Native Controls in the settings menu. If you find this problem only happens on certain Wiis but not on GameCubes, then it likely isn’t a problem with the controller but a problem with the setup itself.
The other possible cause of this is sticky triggers. If your trigger is physically sticking it may cause you lightshield. This is usually only a problem if the triggers are very noticeably sticky.
The third (and most likely) cause is that the L/R slider potentiometer is starting to short out. This can sometimes be fixed just by moving the potentiometer up slightly to reset it, but usually will require replacing the potentiometer.
PODE stands for Potentiometer Oddity Degradation Effect. PODE only happens as controllers wear in over time and is not present on any brand new potentiometers. PODE causes the signal of your controller to move 5-10x faster than that of a brand new potentiometer, even if your thumb is physically moving the control stick at the same speed. One of the consequences of this effect is that controllers will be able to do inputs that require single-frame transitions more consistently. As a result of this, various single-frame control stick inputs are affected, such as dash back and wiggle out of tumble.
Dashback or “good dashback” refers to your controller’s ability to dash backwards out of the standing animation in Melee. If your controller does not move from neutral to the side in 1 frame, your character will go into a laggy turnaround animation before dashing. Controllers have “good dashback” when the potentiometers have worn down in a certain way. This potentiometer effect is called PODE.
You can reset your controller to calibrate it to neutral by holding X+Y+Start for about 3 seconds. This is generally a good idea even if you don’t have the capacitor mod because controllers can drift slightly after plugging in or after playing for a little while.